SPECIALISING IN GARDEN ROUTE & ADDO ELEPHANT NATIONAL PARK TOURS SINCE 2006
In April we did an 8-night safari through Zimbabwe (2 nights in Zambia) with African Bush Camps, and this trip really reminded us why we love what we do and how privileged we are to be in such an amazing industry. Zimbabwe has been on our radar for a long time, and this trip was the perfect opportunity for Chrissy and I to finally go and experience it properly.
As part of running Earthstompers Travel, spending time in the destinations we recommend is essential. It’s one thing to know a place on paper, but it’s something completely different to actually be there, to see and experience the camps, meet the teams, experience the guiding, and understand what a guest will truly experience on the ground.
This journey through Zimbabwe took us across some of its most iconic and remote areas, giving us a proper sense of how it all fits together as a safari. It also allowed us to see the differences between regions, lodges, and styles of travel which is key when advising our clients.
At the end of the day, this is how we build our trips and our recommendations. #WeKnowBecauseWeGo.
Over 8 nights we visited:
• Mana Pools National Park: Nyamatusi Mahogany
• Lake Kariba & Matusadona National Park: Bumi Hills Safari Lodge
• Hwange National Park: Somalisa Camp
• Victoria Falls / Zambezi River: Thorntree River Lodge (Zambia)
Four very different areas, each offering something unique, but all tied together by a proper, authentic safari experience. We were excited and our expectations was high, but this trip exceeded all expectations. We are completely in love with Zimbabwe and its people and overwhelmed and inspired by the professional service and operations from African Bush Camps.
It is surprisingly quick getting from Cape Town to the middle of the Zimbabwean wilderness! We took a 7 a.m. Airlink flight from Cape Town to Johannesburg, then connected to Harare, Zimbabwe. In Harare, we were met by the friendly team from African Bush Camps and taken through customs to a private lounge with refreshments, where we waited for our charter bush flight straight into Mana Pools.
At 14:30, we boarded a small 10-seater bush plane into Mana Pools. That last flight is scenic and a bit adventurous, taking about 1 hour and 10 minutes from Harare to the Mana Pools airstrip. On arrival, we were met by our friendly African Bush Camps guide, Cliffy, in our Land Cruiser safari vehicle with a refreshing face towel and an ice-cold drink. Why not enjoy an ice-cold Zambezi beer when arriving in the Zambezi Valley?
Your airport transfer is basically a game drive, and the experience started immediately. Within 30 minutes of landing, we had already seen lion, leopard, and elephant. The drive to camp is normally about 40 minutes, but with several sightings along the way, we took our time and turned it into a relaxed 2-hour game drive to the lodge.
Nyamatusi Mahogany is a small, open plan lodge that feels very much part of its surroundings. The views from the deck over the Zambezi River and floodplain are special, and it’s one of those camps where you can simply sit back and enjoy an armchair safari as wildlife moves freely through the area and is often visible from the lodge. We spent time in the upstairs lounge and bar, around the pool, and at the firepit and lower deck, where we enjoyed dinner in the evenings. The meals were exceptional and freshly prepared, always impressive considering how remote these locations are.
The camp has only four tented suites: two standard tented suites and two family tented suites. All the suites are positioned along the river with incredible views. The suites are spacious and well equipped with air conditioning, a fan, minibar, double basin, bathtub (with a view), and a large deck with a private plunge pool, perfect for relaxing between activities. While offering all the comfort you’d expect, it still feels like a true tented experience, keeping you close to nature.
What really stood out were the sounds of the bush at night: frogs, insects, hippos in the distance, lions roaring, and impalas calling. From the room and deck, we had wildlife moving past, including elephant, hippo, impala, and even lion, making it easy to sit back and enjoy a proper armchair safari.
While Nyamatusi Mahogony is your child friendly option with two family suites. We also went to visit the magnificent Nyamatusi camp nearby with 6 Luxury Tented Suites. This camp is suitable for children 12 years and older only.
Excellent from the start. Lion, leopard, elephant, and plenty of general game were seen. But what really stands out is the setting: big trees, open floodplains, and the Zambezi River. Mana Pools National Park feels incredibly remote; we hardly saw any other vehicles or people, which makes the whole experience feel wild and unhurried. Seeing the famous Four Pools was a real highlight and adds to the uniqueness of the area.
We also enjoyed a walking safari, which Mana Pools is well known for, and it really gives you a different perspective of the bush. Canoeing on the Zambezi was another highlight, with plenty of hippos, elephant, and crocodiles along the way, as well as an incredible variety of birdlife throughout the area. A big surprise was returning to camp to find a lion actively hunting impala around the lodge.
Our guide, Cliffy, was exceptional. His knowledge, storytelling, and guiding really elevated the entire experience.
Mana Pools is a real highlight. There are birds around every corner, and the mix of river, floodplains, open woodland, and big Ana trees creates a very diverse birding environment. Along the Zambezi you’ll find plenty of waterbirds and raptors, while the forests and bush areas are full of smaller species, making every walk or drive interesting. With over 350 bird species recorded in the area, the variety is impressive, and you’re constantly moving between different habitats and picking up new sightings. We weren’t even there in peak birding season, yet as seasoned travellers, birders, and photographers, we still managed to tick off quite a few species and capture some really special shots.
Getting between the lodges is all part of the adventure and exciting, it’s not your typical commercial travel.
From Mana Pools, it’s about a 40-minute drive to the airstrip, but we left early to turn it into a relaxed last game drive with Cliffy, taking our time along the river and enjoying a few last sightings. The airstrip itself is just a gravel runway with a windsock, which really adds to that remote, adventurous feel.
We boarded our Mack Air flight and took off over Mana Pools, with the Zambezi River running alongside us, a beautiful way to leave. About 40 minutes later, Lake Kariba comes into view, and the sheer size of it is something else. As we approached Bumi Hills, we could already see wildlife below, elephant along the shoreline, zebra, and impala moving through the bush. They even have to clear the runway of animals before landing.
On arrival, we were met by our guide Michael, welcomed with a refreshing towel and an ice-cold Zambezi beer, and after a short five-minute game drive with a few sightings along the way, we arrived at camp to a warm singing welcome from the team.
As mentioned, our game viewing experience at Bumi Hills Safari Lodge started before we even landed, with elephant along the shoreline, zebra, impala, and baboons below as we flew in over Lake Kariba. Bumi Hills is in a private concession bordering Matusadona National Park and your activities are spread across the private concession, the National Park and the lake.
Bumi Hills isn’t a classic Big Five safari. Predator sightings are less common, but that’s not why you come here. It’s about the space, the water, the setting, and the variety of activities, where wildlife becomes part of a much bigger picture. Activities include game drives, walking safaris, boat cruises, and fishing.
We experienced a boat cruise, some fishing, game drives, and a walking safari. The walk was a real highlight, we learned so much from our guide, Michael, and approaching elephant on foot is a proper Zimbabwean safari experience and something truly special. Out on the lake, we saw hippo, crocodile, and elephants along the banks, with fish eagles constantly overhead.
The experience doesn’t end when you return to the lodge. Bushbuck graze around camp, and herds of elephant are often visible along the shoreline from almost every angle. One of the most memorable moments was simply sitting quietly on our deck, hearing elephant moving through the forest below, while two fish eagles circled just above us.
The guides are very excited for a pack of wild dogs and black rhino that will be released into Matusadona National Park in the next few weeks.
Bumi Hills is not your traditional safari lodge. Perched high above Lake Kariba, Bumi Hills Safari Lodge is all about its position. From almost everywhere you look, there are uninterrupted views stretching north across the lake, dotted with islands and all the way towards Zambia. At times, it honestly feels more like Mauritius or the Seychelles just set in the middle of wild Africa.
The suites are spacious, well spread out, and thoughtfully positioned to make the most of those views. There’s a real sense of privacy, and you feel nicely tucked away in your own space. I loved the balcony and outdoor shower with a view over the lake.
The team is incredibly warm and welcoming. The food is excellent, and the whole experience feels relaxed, personal, and sincere. We really enjoyed the traditional braai (BBQ) evening!
There were so many special moments at Bumi Hills Safari Lodge, but one stands out above the rest was our sunset on Lake Kariba.
On our last evening, we were out on a game drive when, as we came around the corner, we were met by the lodge team who had set up a beautiful sundowner spot for us right on the lake with chairs laid out, a fire going, and a gin bar with snacks waiting for us.
Sitting there with a gin and tonic in hand, watching the sun set over the lake, was already something special. But then, just as the sun set, a herd of elephant emerged quietly from the forest and began grazing nearby, completely at ease. It was one of those perfect, unexpected moments; the kind of experience that stays with you long after the trip is over.
From Lake Kariba, we took about a 1h10 flight into Hwange National Park, followed by a 20–30-minute game drive into camp. Flying into Hwange is something special, you really get a sense of the scale of this vast, 1.5-million-hectare wilderness below. You don’t see roads, cars, or people; just endless, wild bush stretching in every direction.
On arrival, we were met by our excellent guide, Calvert, waiting for us in his Land Cruiser game viewer, with a refreshing face towel and an ice-cold Zambezi lager. (You see the trend?) Somalisa Camp is set within a 15,000-hectare private concession, and you immediately feel how remote and wild it is, with very few other vehicles around.
Game viewing in Hwange National Park was excellent, with large herds of elephant, buffalo, and strong lion activity in the area. One of our standout moments was watching a lion chase a sable (unsuccessfully), but still an incredible sighting to witness.
Elephants are everywhere here, even around camp. We had them coming in regularly to drink at the waterhole, often just a few metres away. It’s one of those places where the sightings don’t stop when you get back to camp. I also really enjoyed the birding around the lodge. At night, we could hear lions calling from our tented suite, and on our last morning, we had a big surprise waking up to lions walking right past the lodge and in front of our room.
Our guide, Calvert, was excellent once again. His storytelling, especially about the Somalisa area’s lion family tree really added to the experience.
Once again, African Bush Camps have got the setting just right. Somalisa Camp has that classic tented safari feel we both really enjoy, and being an open, unfenced camp adds to the experience.
Set under acacia trees and overlooking open grasslands and a busy waterhole, it blends beautifully into its surroundings.
Somalisa Camp is a small camp with only seven tented suites. The tented suites are comfortable and spacious, offering everything you need while still keeping that authentic bush feel. We spent a lot of time around the main area and pool, which overlook the waterhole, an easy place to sit back and simply watch the bush unfold in front of you.
At Somalisa, it all comes together, the setting, the classic safari lodge feel, excellent food, strong wildlife, and exceptional Zimbabwean hosts. It’s the kind of place that delivers a well-rounded, proper safari experience.
While Somalisa Camp is perfect for children 12 years and older. Nearby Somalisa Acasia camp caters for families with kids of all ages welcome. This is a small camp with only 4 suites, two of these are Family Suites.
Sitting on the deck at the main lodge with elephants coming in to drink right in front of us was something special. Also, the evening with singing, dancing, and local food added a really nice cultural touch to the stay.
From Hwange National Park, we took a short 40-minute flight into Victoria Falls, followed by a road transfer across the bridge into Livingstone on Zambia’s side. Everything was easy, seamless, and professionally handled by the African Bush Camps team.
It was a bit of a shift leaving the bush behind and flying into town again, suddenly there are tarred roads and people everywhere. We had really gotten used to just being out there on our own in the African wilderness.
That said, there was also a real sense of excitement arriving on the banks of the Zambezi River and knowing we were about to experience Victoria Falls at its highest level in 16 years.
This part of the trip felt very different to the safari, more about the overall experience. The Falls were in full flood and incredibly powerful. You hear them before you see them, and you get completely soaked from the spray.
Thorntree River Lodge is located within Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, so there is wildlife moving freely through the area. We saw rhino, zebra, a large herd of buffalo, and general plains game. There are also elephant that move through the area seasonally, coming across from Botswana and Zimbabwe.
That said, this isn’t really about big safari sightings. It’s more about the experience and being on the mighty Zambezi River, enjoying the river activities, and of course visiting Victoria Falls.
During our stay, we did a rhino walk with the rangers, which was a great experience getting close to these protected animals on foot. We also enjoyed a sunset cruise on the river and a guided tour of the Falls. The river was in full flood, so fishing wasn’t possible, but the high-water levels made everything else even more impressive.
Location, location, location. Again, African Bush Camps really do have a knack for getting this just right. Thorntree River Lodge is one of their icon lodges, set right on the banks of the Zambezi River and it absolutely delivers.
The setting of the lodge is hard to beat. Infinity pools, open decks, and quiet corners all looking out over the river, with that constant sense of being right on the water. The lodge has just 12 suites, all well-spaced out for privacy and that exclusive feel.
The rooms are seriously impressive, spacious, beautifully designed, with large glass doors, private deck, and plunge pools overlooking the Zambezi. It’s one of those rooms you actually don’t want to leave.
What we loved most is how connected you feel to the river. You’re not just near it, you’re part of it. Add to that excellent food, a very impressive wine list, a knowledgeable sommelier, and once again, the hosts made us feel completely looked after.
A proper five-star finish to an unforgettable journey.
If Zimbabwe is on your radar, it’s a destination well worth considering, especially for returning safari travellers looking for something a little different. Chrissy and I have just experienced these camps and regions firsthand, and it’s given us real insight into how special this part of Africa is.
From Mana Pools National Park to Hwange National Park and the Zambezi River, each area brings something unique. It’s about remote, wild areas, uncrowded experiences, strong guiding, a real connection to nature, and warm, genuine hospitality. Each region offers something different, but together it creates a complete and well rounded safari.
But more than anything, what really stood out to us were the people. You can clearly see the hard work, training, and dedication that goes into the teams at these camps. We have been travelling on safari for more than 20 years, and the guides and hosts we experienced over these eight days were honestly some of the best we have ever had.
The camps are magnificent, the wildlife is incredible, the rooms are beautiful, and everything runs smoothly, but it is the people that truly make the experience. The warmth, smiles, pride, and genuine care from everyone we met is something that really stayed with us.
Another thing that is important to us when partnering with supplier is sustainability and community impact. We really admired the work being done through the African Bush Camps Foundation and the commitment to local communities. It is clear that what is being built here goes far beyond tourism, and that is something we deeply respect.
If you’re looking for a safari that feels real and immersive, Zimbabwe delivers.
If you’re thinking about Zimbabwe, chat to us, we’d love to help you plan it properly. For more detail, see our new Zimbabwe page.
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What’s next? It must be the amazing Zambia! Watch this space.
African greetings
Hendrik & Chrissy